3D printed replacement partsCan you 3D print a broken part that's no longer sold?
Often, yes: when a plastic clip, knob or bracket breaks and the manufacturer no longer sells the part on its own, it can usually be reproduced with 3D printing. It works well for parts that hold a shape (knobs, handles, covers, clips, feet, guides) and not for parts that take heat, heavy load, water pressure or electricity. You don't need the 3D file: with photos of the part next to a ruler and three or four measurements, a maker can model it. On Fabrishare you post the project for free and get offers within 24–48 hours; as a reference, a small part costs about €10 (€6–€17), excluding VAT and shipping.
Which parts can be printed
The rule of thumb: plastic parts with no safety function that don't get hot for long periods.
Good candidates
- Clips, brackets, hooks and covers
- Knobs, dials, handles and buttons
- Furniture connectors, feet, caps and spacers
- Housing parts, battery covers and adapters
- Gears and mechanisms under light load
Better not printed
- Safety parts: brakes, structural parts, child-safety locks
- Parts next to gas, mains power or heating elements
- Parts in contact with food if the material isn't suitable
- Parts that copy the manufacturer's logo or protected design
Getting the spare part, step by step
Getting a 3D printed spare part takes five steps, from identifying the part to testing it:
- 1
Identify the device and the part
Note the brand, the model and, if there is one, the part number. Ask the manufacturer or a spares shop first: sometimes the original part is still available, and that's the easiest fix.
- 2
Look for a ready-made file
Printables and Thingiverse have thousands of spare parts. Search by model or part number and check the dimensions and the licence.
- 3
No file? Measure the part
Use calipers to measure what matters (holes, distances between screws, wall thickness) and take photos from every side with a ruler next to it. If the part is broken, tape or glue it together for the photos. A maker models it from that.
- 4
Choose the material
For a functional part, PETG is what most makers use: tough, fine for everyday use and reliable to print. For something that takes knocks or will get dropped, like a remote-control casing, ABS holds up better; but ABS is hard to print: it needs an enclosed printer with controlled temperature, and not every maker has one. That's why most offers come in PETG: not because ABS is worse, but because PETG is the option that prints reliably. ASA behaves like ABS and also resists sunlight (for outdoor parts), TPU is for flexible parts, and nylon (PA12, printed with SLS or MJF) for heavily loaded mechanisms. PLA only for parts with no load and no heat.
- 5
Print and test
Order one part first and check the fit. If it works, you can order a second one as a spare.
Spare parts for household appliances
For washing machines, dishwashers, fridges or vacuum cleaners everything above applies, with two differences:
Manufacturer files are accessories, not spare parts
Some manufacturers publish their own print files: Miele offers free files on Thingiverse through its “3D4U” programme. But they're accessories, such as a drill-dust catcher for the vacuum tube or a small-parts separator, not spare parts. For the part that actually broke there's usually no file: then you measure it (step 3).
Which details to give about the appliance
Brand, model, year and the details on the rating plate; on Bosch, Siemens or Neff appliances that includes the E-Nr. The rating plate is usually on the edge of the door, in the door frame or on the inside side wall. With that you can check whether the part is still sold, and the maker knows exactly what they're reproducing.
What goes wrong in practice
Before Fabrishare existed we printed ourselves, and made two mistakes that explain why a maker sometimes suggests a different material from the one you asked for:
Shelf feet in PLA
We printed them in PLA because it was quick and cheap, and they didn't hold the load. Since then it's been clear: PLA isn't up to parts that carry weight. Those need PETG or ABS.
A figure left in the sun
A figure printed in PLA was left in the sun and had warped by the same afternoon. PLA doesn't degrade in sunlight over months: it softens on the first warm day. For anything that sits in the sun, ASA or ABS.
From the network: real repairs
Two jobs that went through the maker network (no names):
A shelf connector
The broken part wasn't sold on its own. It was reproduced in FDM and the shelving stayed in use.
A caravan lock
A functional part that works every day: it had to be tough, not decorative.
How much does a 3D printed spare part cost?
Ballpark prices for the whole job, excluding VAT and shipping, worked out with the Fabrishare calculator. If the maker has to model the part, the design is extra and shown in their offer.
| Part | Technology | Range | Typical |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small spare part (bracket, clip) | FDM | €6 – €17 | €10 |
| Medium case or cover | FDM | €7 – €19 | €12 |
| Run of 100 small parts | FDM | €219 – €585 | €365 |
How to order your spare part
- 1Post your project for free: the STL file, or photos with measurements and a line on what the part is for.
- 2Your project reaches the makers in the network who print or model functional parts.
- 3Within 24–48 hours you get offers with price, material and lead time. You choose one, the maker prints it and ships it to you.
Questions about 3D printed spare parts
How much does it cost to print a spare part?
As a reference, about €10 for a small part like a clip or bracket and about €12 for a medium cover, excluding VAT and shipping. If the part has to be modelled, the design is extra. The maker gives the exact price in their offer.
I don't have the file. Can it still be done?
Yes. Send photos from every side with a ruler next to it and the main measurements. Some makers in the network model the part, and others can scan it if you send it to them.
Which material should I ask for?
For most functional parts, PETG: it's what almost every maker will offer. If the part takes knocks or will get dropped, ABS holds up better, but it needs an enclosed printer and not every maker has one. ASA for outdoors, TPU for flexible parts, and PLA only if there's no load and no heat.
Is a printed part as strong as the original?
With the right material, often yes, and sometimes stronger. It depends on the material, the wall thickness and the print orientation. Say in the project what forces and temperatures the part has to take.
How accurate is the part?
With FDM, deviations of about 0.1 to 0.3 mm are normal, and usually less with SLS or MJF. For snap fits and threads the maker leaves some clearance. That's why it's worth testing one part first.
Am I allowed to have a spare part reproduced?
To repair your own device, a purely functional part usually isn't a problem. What you shouldn't reproduce are logos, trademarks or protected designs. When you post the project you confirm you have the right to have it printed.